A volunteer with the Committee Against Bird Slaughter frees a bird snared in a mist net in Sardinia. Suspended between two poles, the nets are made of thread so fine that birds in flight don’t see them.
Finch trapping was banned in Malta in 2018, but conservation groups say it hasn’t stopped.
A new report coming out of Cyprus alleges that more than 400,000 songbirds were trapped illegally in the autumn of 2023, poached for an illegal dish. And animal rights activists there say the practice is on the rise.
“Illegal bird trapping has become a demand-driven wildlife crime, with the trading of trapped birds in lawbreaking restaurants being the key economic driver for organised trappers, who, as is generally acknowledged, make thousands of euros of illegal profit every year,” says BirdLife Cyprus.
Songbirds are trapped in nets and then cooked into what is known as ambelopoulia, a controversial dish of grilled, fried, pickled or boiled songbirds. It is a traditional dish enjoyed by native Cypriots and you can find it in some restaurants.
BirdLife Cyprus, who conducted the study found that “illegal bird trapping with mist nets showed an apparent increase during autumn 2023, based on the survey data. Despite this increase, the enforcement efforts of both the SBA police and the Game and Fauna Service are fully acknowledged.
“Autumn 2023 was a good case study of what would happen if resources are removed/ or diverted too soon. Pressure and sufficient enforcement resources committed to tackling bird trapping need to be maintained for many years, to ensure that trapping levels remain low. Any relaxation could undo the positive progress recorded over the last few seasons,” they recommend.
Mark Thomas, the head of the bird group RSPB investigations, said organised trappers are continuing to make huge profits for little risk. “We cannot allow the progress we have made to be undone and the shocking levels of songbird killings to return to the abhorrent levels we once saw,” he said.
The death death toll estimates do not take into consideration any illegal bird trapping taking place into the Turkish occupied part of Cyprus.
Trapping songbirds is currently illegal in Cyprus as it involves trapping wild birds such as blackcaps and European robins. As spring begins in the Middle East and Africa, and migratory birds head to Europe be cautious to not support this illegal dish. While some countries ban the consumption of wildlife to protect it, there is often a problem enforcing the law – as is the case with shark fin soup.
A songbird poacher net in Cyprus
You can also find songbirds for sale in restaurants in Italy and Malta, and according to BirdLife Italy it is estimated that more than 5 million birds are hunted illegally in Italy every year. Some are killed for use in traditional dishes and others, particularly songbirds, are kept alive to be smuggled into Malta.
In northern Italy, “polenta uccelli” is a traditional autumn dish. The birds are grilled on a spit and served with a portion of polenta, as well as a local sausage.
In France a songbird Ortolan Bunting is eaten and is called the sin plate. To hide their shame, people eat it with their heads covered in napkins to hide their sin from God. It is banned in France, but the practice continues.
The french eating songbirds, ortolon. Source: unknown
According to a Reddit submission: Roast Ortolan, an adorable bird the size of a man’s thumb and weighs less than an ounce. It is meant to be eaten feet first with the beak and head being last so you can enjoy the subtle flavours of the brain when the little skull breaks between your teeth. It’s a French delicacy.
What’s a person to do? Keep an eye our for bird poaching nets when on hikes in Cyprus, Turkey-occupied Cyprus, Italy, and Malta. If you find the nets or this illegal dish for sale in a restaurant, contact BirdLife Cyprus or BirdLife International. The group also offers ideas for you to do your part, like how to protect songbird nests. last thing: never order a wild bird for dinner.
Get the report on songbirds in Cyprus here. Scroll down to see the report in English.
Author: Karin Kloosterman
Karin Kloosterman is an award-winning journalist, innovation strategist, and founder of Green Prophet, one of the Middle East’s pioneering sustainability platforms. She has ranked in the Top 10 of Verizon innovation competitions, participated in NASA-linked challenges, and spoken worldwide on climate, food security, and future resilience. With an IoT technology patent, features in Canada’s National Post, and leadership inside teams building next-generation agricultural and planetary systems — including Mars-farming concepts — Karin operates at the intersection of storytelling, science, and systems change. She doesn’t report on the future – she helps design it. Reach out directly to [email protected]
