Moshe Basson, chef, food historian and owner of the famous Eucalyptus restaurant in Jerusalem, has finally published his cookbook. Its title is, naturally, The Eucalyptus Cookbook. The foreword is by Claudia Roden, an international authority on the foods of the Middle East and the Mediterranean.
I’ve often eaten at The Eucalyptus, and to my delight, I found recipes in the book for dishes I’ve enjoyed there, such as chicken makloubah, Basson’s signature dish. Chicken and vegetables are cooked with rice, then the pot turned upside down on a platter to present a savory cake. I cooked it. It’s delicious, and elicits a “Wow!” from impressed guests. Read a personal interview with Moshe Basson.
The contents begin with vegetable recipes and go on to soups, grain and bean-based foods, meat, chicken, and fish, sweets, cocktails, and condiments and basics.
Peppered throughout the book are beautiful photos of the dishes and the chef himself at work.
There are recipes for all varieties of eaters. Vegans and omnivores alike will find appetizing recipes in the vegetables, soups, and grains and beans sections. Bonus: here’s a vegan maklubah recipe, with portobello mushrooms, cauliflower, and eggplant. It must be said though that the list of meat dishes is the longest in the book. And very delicious they are, as I’ve had occasion to find out.
As the Eucalyptus Restaurant is kosher and serves meat, the desserts don’t include dairy in any form. Almond and soy replace milk and cream. In the few places where butter is listed (a nod to tradition as in the baklava recipe), sunflower oil is the suggested alternative. It must also be noted that there are no artificial ingredients in The Eucalyptus recipes.
The book is a great read for food lovers. Basson loves to tell stories, and you’ll find many there. His recounts vignettes from his childhood in the Judean hills with his Iraqi immigrant parents, and from his travels and present home life. He tells of his early culinary inspirations, often quoting his mother, Spirons. He combines his passion for reviving biblical foods (with delicious variations) with references from Jewish and other historical sources. He meditates on beloved dishes central to family life, especially dishes for Shabbat and holidays, such as the hamine overnight stew, Iraqi style.
Read carefully, and you’ll find little humorous asides, like this tip for cooking Jerusalem artichoke soup: “Don’t lift the cover during the first 25 minutes – Jerusalem artichoke is a crazy vegetable and a draft of cold wind may prevent the tubers from ever getting soft.” He also recommends that when you grind his cilantro pesto with a mortar and pestle, you should “raise your voice in song, because the sound is good for the spices.” Well – that’s if you choose the ancient way over your food processor.
Especially endearing are vignettes like the one in which we see Basson’s mother cooking Aruk chicken fritters and keeping an eagle eye on hungry grandchildren getting ready to filch them. I don’t know if I could resist those savory patties, myself (mouthwatering photos and recipe on pages 136-139.)
Recipes with wild greens cast an interesting light on foraged food. I’ve eaten Basson’s gnocchi based on mallows with much pleasure, and as nettles are just coming up in the backyard, I’ll soon be opening the book to the nettles soup page.
From simple daily foods like humus to sumptuous party dishes like figs stuffed with chicken in tamarind sauce, the Eucalyptus Cookbook offers over a hundred recipes to choose from. Browse its pages, and be prepared to cook.
The Eucalyptus Cookbook
Moshe Basson with Sharon Fradis
Levin Press, Israel
243 pages. ISBN 978-965-93115-0-7
More ethnic and foraged foods below:
Chef Moshe Basson’s Za’atar Pesto
Turkish vegan bulgur balls in eggplant and tomato sauce
Two dips from the Lebanese cuisine: ful medames and musabaha
