Salman Rasouli

Critiquing architectural and development projects, particularly within environmentally sensitive contexts, is an essential component of social dynamism and a prerequisite for healthy public discourse. However, such dialogue can only be constructive when it is built upon accurate information, verified field observations, and unambiguous reference to scientific sources.

The article “The Aga Khan is Greenwashing Their Awards,” written by Ronak Roshan and published on September 3, 2025, on Green Prophet, critiques the “Majara Complex and Community Redevelopment.” While the project appears at first glance to align with the sustainability values of international awards, the article relies on a series of claims to argue that it contradicts the fundamental principles of sustainable development.

Majara is part of the “Presence in Hormuz” initiative by ZAV Architects, developed alongside projects like the “Rong Cultural Center” and the “Typeless.” Designed within the natural and social fabric of Hormuz Island, the project aims to foster cultural tourism and create socio-economic opportunities for the local community. It was subsequently named a recipient of the Aga Khan Award in the 2023–2025 cycle.

While disagreement regarding the balance between development and the environment is expected, when a critique relies on scientific and environmental claims, the accuracy of citations and field observations becomes paramount. Such texts significantly shape the perception of non-specialist audiences regarding architectural and development projects.

Accuracy of Information and Responsible Critique

In the article in question, references to academic research are presented in a way that initially lends the arguments an air of validity. However, a closer examination reveals that the scientific content of these sources has been misinterpreted.

For example, regarding sea turtle nesting sites:

Research by Loghmani-Devin, Savari, and Sadeghi (2013) regarding “Hawksbill Turtle nesting on Hormuz Island” [1] states that while two-thirds of the island’s beaches are suitable for nesting, the northern and western shores are not utilized for this purpose due to the nature of the substrate. The Majara complex is situated precisely along these northern and western shores.

Research by Maria and Nasir (2014), referenced in the article, focuses on “Identifying and Prioritizing Important Nesting Sites of the Green Turtle on the Iranian Beaches of the Oman Sea” [2]. While the study makes passing reference to Persian Gulf islands, its primary focus is the Iranian mainland coast. No specific data or field maps were provided for Hormuz Island, making it an insufficient source for conclusions about the island’s habitats.

Furthermore, inaccuracies exist at the level of basic field observation. The article mistakenly places Majara in the west and southwest of the island. In reality, the complex is located on the northwestern shore, approximately four kilometers from Hormuz City, a fact easily verifiable by public maps.

Development, Sustainable Tourism, and Hormuz Island

In the post-World War II era, rapid industrialization and environmental damage gave rise to environmental movements that increased awareness about resource exploitation. The central dilemma remained: how to reduce poverty and improve social welfare without economic and industrial development.

The concept of sustainable development emerged as a response, aiming to meet present needs without compromising the future. In tourism, this requires balancing economic, social, and environmental impacts.

In Hormuz, the debate is often framed as development versus conservation. Global experience shows that development brings both risks and opportunities. The goal is not to reject development, but to manage it responsibly through planning and conservation strategies.

Majara Project’s Strategy for Sustainable Development

The Majara project outlines several approaches to maintaining a sustainable relationship with the island:

Architectural and Environmental Strategies

• Materials: Use of Nader Khalili’s Superadobe technique and sustainable materials.
• Permeability: Elimination of perimeter walls to maintain ecosystem integration.
• Setbacks: A 71-meter distance from the high-tide line.

Socio-Economic Strategies

• Employment: Jobs for 120 local residents.
• Empowerment: Training in construction, management, and hospitality.
• Local Support: Support for cultural events and artists.

Social Impact Strategies

• Workshops on biodiversity awareness
• Wildlife mapping for visitors
• Community use of Typeless complex
• Support for cultural programming

Participatory Conservation Strategies

• Collaboration with NGOs and environmental groups
• Stray dog management and gazelle surveys
• Development of a sustainable tourism framework

Technical Analysis: Turtle Habitats and Soil Quality

Sea turtle nesting depends on specific coastal conditions. Scientific data indicates that the Majara shoreline is unsuitable due to fine-grained, saline, and metal-rich soils, as well as its narrow width.

In contrast, southern and southeastern shores have light-colored, permeable, carbonate-rich sands suitable for nesting and are designated protected areas.

Vegetation and Restoration

Prosopis juliflora, introduced in the 20th century, became invasive. At Majara, approximately 80 trees were removed and replaced with over 500 native species.

Waste and Water Management

The site includes a wastewater treatment system capable of processing 20 cubic meters per day, along with a composting system handling up to 50 kg of organic waste daily.

Conclusion

The Aga Khan Award process involves rigorous field evaluation. While no project is without limitations, discussions of sustainability must be grounded in accurate data and transparent analysis.

We invite researchers, critics, and interested parties to engage further through field visits and dialogue on Hormuz Island.

_____

Salman Rassouli is an Iranian architect with a passion in green architecture and sustainable development. Starting his career path as an environmental activist, he gained a Master’s degree in environment and sustainable development from UCL in 2009. Further, he served as project manager in the NGO CENESTA, where he led projects such as “empowering nomadic people of Iran” through facilitating development of conservation plans and promotion of sustainable livelihoods. Since 2017, he started working as an architect and sustainability manager in ZAV architects, consulting the Majara and other Projects for sustainable design and environmental impact assessment.

::Zav Architects

The post A Fact-Based Reflection on Sustainability and Tourism in Hormuz appeared first on Green Prophet.

Neom, a bombastic collection of futuristic cities and resorts, has flopped as Saudi oil prices roll back reality. The Saudi plan of hosting the 2029 Asian games to be held at Trojena, a ski report in the desert, has been cancelled.

The 2029 Asian Winter Games were supposed to be Saudi Arabia’s big moment for tourism and Vision 2030, hosted at Trojena, the ambitious mountain ski resort being built inside the $500 billion Neom megaproject in the northwest desert. It would have been the first winter sporting event ever held in an Arab-speaking country, a remarkable geopolitical flex for a nation with essentially no winter sports tradition and barely any snow. (Read here about Snowmax and the dangers of artificial snow).

The Olympic Council of Asia announced the games would be postponed last month, and within days announced they would instead move to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Al Arabiya Gulf News gave no reason for the change, but the context is hard to ignore.

With oil prices down, Saudi Arabia is in fiscal trouble, and oil is the core of the problem. The kingdom’s budget deficit widened in the fourth quarter of 2025 to its highest level in five years, as lower oil prices squeezed government finances, according to Arab News.

Saudi Arabia needs crude at around $91 a barrel to balance its budget, but prices have been stuck in the low $60s for months Securities Finance Times, a gap of nearly 30% between the dream and reality.

That gap is starting to show in the kingdom’s grand ambitions of building The Mile, a 15-minute city on the Red Sea.

Saudi officials have signaled a pivot to “wiser” spending, and the government has made clear it will not hesitate to walk away from costly projects that no longer fit its priorities.

Trojena, which was already facing significant construction delays and had missed its original 2026 completion target, appears to be one casualty of that reckoning along with The Line.

Saudi officials have been quietly reviewing some of the biggest Vision 2030 projects and though they are not canceling them outright, they are stretching timelines and trimming scope.

Almaty, by contrast mades sense. Kazakhstan previously hosted the 2011 Asian Winter Games and the 2017 Winter Universiade, so the infrastructure is already there.

For Saudi Arabia, losing the games is more than a sporting embarrassment. It’s a signal that Vision 2030’s most spectacular promises: a ski resort in the desert, a linear city in the wilderness, a new Las Vegas on the Red Sea were always contingent on oil staying expensive. And one by one, reality is doing the editing that ambition refused to do. If Americans pull through on fusion (see Xcimer), OPEC oil will be over.

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Balat is not a neighborhood you would visit on a standard tour to Istanbul—the kind that shuttles you between giant mosques like Hagia Sophia. If you want a real taste of the city and the people who live there, wander a smaller neighborhood. Balat is my favorite for its cobblestone lanes, record shops, cafés, second-hand clothing stores, colorful stairs, textiles and towel shops—and the cats. Cats rule Balat, and much of Istanbul.

Be prepared to lose yourself wandering around this village-like part of the city. I’d spend half a day in Balat, much of it in wanderer mode. This is one of Istanbul’s most quietly enchanting quarters, where cultures overlap not as a museum piece, but as a living, breathing fact.

For centuries Balat has been home to Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Muslims, and that mosaic still shapes the streets. You’ll pass the Ahrida Synagogue, Orthodox churches, and modest mosques within minutes of each other. Unlike grand Sultanahmet, Balat’s diversity feels intimate and domestic—it’s history at human scale you can still touch and feel. Homes and cafés are built among crumbling walls and old fortifications, and the vibe among the people is good. As my Uber driver said arriving in Balat, “In Istanbul we love our cats, and hate our mayor.”

Balat has recently become a magnet for vintage lovers and collectors (some say it happened when Coffee Department opened in 2010), but it hasn’t lost its edge and grit.

Find old record players spinning Turkish tunes, bent silverware, Anatolian rugs, colorful caftans, postcards, rusted tools, and ceramic cups poking out from tiny shops that are halfway between a flea market and a time capsule. We saw men dancing in the street and attractive local couples (lovers?) having intense coffee conversations in the late sunny morning—on a weekday.

The prices in the second-hand clothing shops are not what they once were (here is our old guide to second hand clothing shops in Istanbul around Istiklal street), but the items are well-curated. And the second-hand shops in Istanbul will still offer you eastern garb such as cloaks and overcoats, plus colorful wool sweaters. The stairs and buildings in Balat are colorful too.

The joy of being in Balat—or in Istanbul in general—is not ticking off addresses and sites of interest. It’s letting curiosity pull you down side streets where eye contact can lead to a conversation.

Three Cafes Worth Lingering In

Velvet Cafe – A Balat institution. Mismatched furniture, plants everywhere, and the feeling that time has agreed to slow down. Looks like a place to join a revolution—or start one.

Naftalin Kafe – Nostalgia perfected: old family photos, radios, and Turkish coffee that tastes like it belongs to the room. Cats rule the café. Notice our top photo taken recently outside Naftalin on one of the main tourist streets, where the cat is telling the waitress who to serve next.

Coffee Department in Balat – A more modern stop with excellent coffee, popular with locals and creatives without breaking the spell of the neighborhood. Believed to be the café that opened Balat up to becoming a prime tourist destination.

This is cat country, and humans know it. Cats lounge on stoops, café chairs, shop counters, and car hoods with total confidence and airs of superiority. They do let you touch—on their terms. Bowls of food appear mysteriously. Some cats even drop down on a rope from the sky (or the top-floor apartment). People have built cat houses for their furry friends, and non-profits exist to help foreigners send a beloved Balat street-cat back home with quarantine and papers (see Paws of Hope if you are interested in the adoption process). This is far from the Erdoğan-style Turkey that has called for the culling of millions of Turkish street dogs.

In Balat, cats are not a feature. They are the management.

Explore your faith in interfaith

Balat wears its interfaith history casually. As you wander, the names surface naturally: the Ahrida Synagogue and Yanbol Synagogue, quiet and inward-looking, echo Balat’s once-thriving Jewish life. Then the call to prayer drifts from neighborhood mosques like Ferruh Kethüda, Tahta Minare, and Balat Çavuş; and church bells mark time at St. George (Aya Yorgi), St. Mary of the Mongols, and the iron-clad St. Stephen Church by the water. Holding time are the crumbling Byzantine walls—cracked, vine-covered, and indifferent to faith—reminding you that in Balat, coexistence was a daily habit.

Follow the slope down toward the historic Golden Horn and you’ll find fishermen casting lines for small fish, chatting here and there while watching the water—and making sure the crows and the cats don’t fish the tiny fish out of the buckets.

Second hand clothing and vintage shops in Balat, Istanbul

Istanbul is known for its curios and second-hand clothing shops. You will get a taste of it all in Balat as you wander the streets. We came across a few vintage and second-hand clothing shops. The prices were not cheap (a T-shirt was priced around 25 Euros), so if you are in the business of bargain-basement shopping, better shop elsewhere in America or Canada at church thrift shops.

Ayca Vintage

Ayca vintage has a great vibe, with African drumming and song beckoning you to come in. We guessed it was the owner who peeked at us from under her hat—cat nearby—journaling. The shop is stocked with vintage caftans and colorful sweaters. She’s taken the selection job out of your day.

Ayvansaray mahallesi sultan çeşmesi cad. no:83A BALAT Fatih / istanbul

Twobavintage

Around the same area is Twobavintage, which stocks mainly kitschy kitchen items and relics from another era. There is a small selection of clothes in the back.

Ayvansaray Mahallesi Sultan Çesmesi Sokak No 94 Balat

Kulis vintage

Expect to pay a pretty penny for thrifted T-shirts and second-hand, western style here at Kulis Vintage. We found the same in Berlin when we were there 2 months ago. Highly curated, high prices—which is the way of the world for curated vintage in cities. Kensington Market in Toronto has been like that for decades.

Exploring the streets and finding colorful umbrellas and painted stairs in Balat is a must. Some parts are tourist traps, demanding you buy food before you enter. Some coffee shop owners say they have the best rooftop views of the Golden Horn. We can’t confirm.

We found an excellent towel and blanket shop with great prices. Where you can still find a deal is if you are looking for high-quality Turkish cotton towels. We found a shop, pictured below, where we bought a few high-quality towels for 200 LR each, about $5 USD. We didn’t bother bargaining because the price was fair and the seller was very nice.

His shop was down the street from Ayca Eastern Design. We didn’t get the full name, so show this man’s photo around the neighborhood and the locals will point out the way.

Off the Path: Working-Class Istanbul

Another face of Balat reveals itself when you leave the “Instagram streets.” Wander toward Cibali, where workshops still hum—metalworkers, repair shops, small factories—and life feels practical. This is also where you brush up against literary history.

Nearby lived Orhan Kemal, one of Turkey’s great writers of the working class. Kemal was the chronicler of laborers, factory hands, and the urban poor. He worked near the old Cibali Tobacco Factory (today part of Istanbul University), quite close to his former home, and wrote about the very people you still encounter here.

His presence lingers not as a plaque-heavy attraction, but as a spirit. We walked past his modest corner house that holds a plaque to his name. Impressive wooden houses nearby are for sale, and we dream about being a writer from his vantage point in this now-charming location.

Balat isn’t polished, and that’s exactly the point. It rewards slow walking and making mistakes. Tune into a few landmarks that interest you and wander toward them, noticing what you meet, smell, and hear along the way. On one of our meanderings we came across three schoolboys “cat-napping” a cat in their backpack to take home.

We also appreciated that some of the local artisans, like the owner of ilitya, are opening their studios for hands-on experiences. He is a graduate of design school and, unlike the thousands of traditional pottery studios in Turkey, he sells modern functional-ware. Made in molds and glazed in the studio, you can buy—or study and make your own—your choice.

We took a taxi to Balat from our hotel, but plenty of buses and trams run right to this neighborhood.

Green Prophet’s trip to Istanbul was sponsored by the United Religions Initiative, an interfaith network for peace and reconciliation. Their travel grant allowed us to tour Istanbul’s heritage independently to witness and report on the city’s diversity and heritage.

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It isn’t a grand idea like the Orient Express or a luxury train through Saudi Arabia (the Dream of the Desert) but a German R&D project piques curiosity on its feasibility to repurpose inner city and suburban railways. It helps urban and suburban renewable and seniors get around.

In New York, old rail lines were turned into The High Line, a gorgeous urban park platform full of urban gardens, art and the best ice cream sandwiches you’ll find in the world. It’s a must when you visit New York. Tel Aviv’s train lines, the ones that travelled from Jaffa to Beirut and from Jaffa to Jerusalem have also got an upgrade — into an urban center and shopping area called The Tachana, or The Station. Dog parks, playgrounds and cafes line the old rail tracks that are still apparent when you take a stroll.

How many cities and suburban areas have out of commission rail tracks?

The German innovators, a collection of researchers and city planners, are hoping to put oil train tracks to use by creating monorail cabs that can traverse the lines already laid down. This is especially important in the countryside where older people don’t drive and small towns are dwindling as people move to the cities for better access to resources. The cabs roll on one wheel, are stabilised by a gyroscope and allow two in opposite directions to pass one another.

They are called Monocab Owls. The pictures speak for themselves. And if anyone has ever lived through an urban improvement period as I have in Jaffa, you will know it can tear down trees (see how ecologists fought the city and won!), it costs millions of dollars, the dust and pollution is horrendous and it takes years of unpleasantness for residents. In Jaffa, dozens if not a hundred retail businesses were decimated in the process of building the cities Light Rapid Train. A Monocab could be a great solution until we all get renewably powered Jetson cabs that fly in the sky.

The Monocab project is a collaboration of many partners and include Ostwestfalen-Lippe University of Applied Sciences, the Bielefeld University of Applied Sciences, the Fraunhofer IOSB-INA, the RailCampus OWL, and the Lippe district.

The project funding is provided as part of the implementation of the operational program of the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) in North Rhine-Westphalia, with co-financing by the Ministry for Environment, Nature Conservation, and Transport of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia.

We’d love to see this low-cost solution developed in suburban centers allowing residents to enjoy mobility without the cost of developing new infrastructure that can cost millions.

By investing in ideas like Monocab Owl, the EU is revolutionising sustainable commuting. This gyro-stabilised monorail offers autonomous, on-demand transport, boosting rural connectivity. A big yes for the environment.

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As our twins enter their last year of high school, we are acutely aware of the passage of time. We feel a strong pull to linger and savour our moments together. So at the end of the summer, with our national airline in Canada on the verge of a strike, we booked a 10-day trip to Morocco.  Looking to slow down our experience of time, we wanted to learn from people with different stories and life paths.

We focused on doing and learning.  We crafted with master artisans – carving wood, etching plaster and stamping copper. We cooked tagines and couscous with a local family, baked bread in the community oven, and walked the winding pathways of medina streets in Marrakesh and Fez. We travelled by train and car while delighting in raw landscapes, beautifully spiced food, colourful architecture, and connecting deeply with the people we met.

Between Marrakesh and Fez, we booked 2 nights in the small mountain village of Imlil, in the High Atlas Mountains, to experience nature and life outside Morocco’s more urban centres. Despite its proximity to and easy travel from Marrakesh, Imlil felt dramatically different. We stayed at the Kasbah du Toubkal which is much more than a boutique hotel.

The Kasbah du Toubkal

The Kasbah du Toubkal is set high on a hilltop overlooking the village of Imlil with North Africa’s highest peak, Mount Toubkal, behind it. Unique in its approach to tourism, the Kasbah was founded upon and reflects an intentional set of ethical principles that aims to promote Berber values of hospitality, community connection, environmental preservation and cultural harmony.

The Kasbah is grounded in a story of true partnership and friendship between two people, British and Berber, which is infused into every aspect. Mike McHugo and Hajj Maurice met in 1978 and the Kasbah opened in 1995, with the shared belief that the Kasbah be built in collaboration and connection with the local Berber community.

Hajj Maurice and his wife Hajja Arkia (who welcomed us with a hug) along with their team from the local community, manage the day to day operations. A core value of the Kasbah is to share the beauty of Toubkal National Park with anyone who respects it, thereby offering a range of accommodation and pricing to ensure it is widely accessible to a diverse group of guests.

The arrival

Only 1.5 hours from Marrakesh, up winding pink mountainous roads, we arrived at the Berber village of Imlil in anticipation of the mystery that awaited us. After a warm greeting, we began our walk up a steep rugged trail to the Kasbah, passing by families from the local communities and towering gnarled walnut trees, grateful to the mule accompanying us, our bags strapped to her back. After 15 minutes, we reached the dark etched wooden doors of the Kasbah eager to experience what lay beyond them.

The Kasbah’s doors opened into a mystical realm of intricate stone pathways, arched doorways and hidden alleyways. Nature surrounds, with mature fruit trees, colourful flowers, looming mountains, villages and waterfalls dotting the landscape. Large sitting areas with colourful traditional decor and fireplaces, interspersed throughout, offer panoramic views and facilitate connection among guests.

We were welcomed with fresh mint tea and nuts which we enjoyed while sinking into colourful pillows, the imposing mountains ablaze with the bright afternoon sun. We could hear the soulful call to prayer being sung from the village mosques further grounding us in this spiritual moment. Our kids sat at the edge of the newly built infinity pool looking out on the multi-coloured rock, still processing the previous days’ experiences in Marrakesh.

We ate dinner on the upper terrace as the sun set across the valley, the sun illuminating the towering peaks surrounding us. Dinner, prepared in house, included warm fresh bread with butter, black and green olives, potato soup eaten with long wooden ladles, fresh dates, and chicken tagine with preserved lemons, potatoes rice and carrots – beautifully presented on clay dishes.

That night we went to sleep in our family suite to the cacophony of sounds from the surrounding villages echoing across the valley, of children playing, and animals bellowing, making the mountains feel alive and comforting in the darkness of the night.

The Kasbah offers many types of accommodation from en-suite rooms, to full private self-contained houses. We stayed in a two-level family suite with colourful decor, hand-woven carpets and carved wooden doors. Upstairs there was a full kitchen, living room, dining room, indoor fireplace, and an outdoor terrace overlooking fruit-laden fig trees. The Kasbah also offers its guests the opportunity to sleep under the stars on carpets and under blankets which we hope to experience someday.

Mount Toubkal and Trekking

The next morning, we woke up early for a guided hike arranged by the Kasbah. We fueled up with breakfast from a display of wooden bowls filled with nuts, dried fruits (prunes, figs, apricots), cereal, and yogurt. The warm bread and crepes were served with butter, cheese, honey, hardboiled eggs, and freshly squeezed orange juice.

We set off with our guide, Abdul, on a half day rigorous hike. Following a stream, we eased in with a tour of local villages, then up a steep climb through the Toubkal National Park. Mountain trails took us through turquoise, red, orange and purple boulders where we spotted elusive squirrels darting in and out of the rocky cracks. We passed bee hives, apple orchards, and snacked on wild blackberries. We descended steep stairs built into the rocks to waterfalls, where families splashed in swimming holes and enjoyed tagines cooked on open coals.

Our guide told us stories of village life and explained the nature all around us. He told us his father used to ski between villages in winter until global warming took away most of the snow and that before electricity arrived in 1997, people used to communicate by yelling across the valley. These few hours only gave us a taste of the potential to explore this rugged region. The Kasbah offers multi-day treks including the ascent of Mount Toubkal.

That afternoon, we swam in the Kasbah’s new infinity pool, that holds a 270-degree vista of the surrounding mountains, villages and valleys. This pool was added during a major rebuild after an earthquake in September 2023 devastated the area and destroyed parts of the Kasbah. It is a beautiful addition that can be enjoyed by families. We met other guests from England and Wales who were resting up by the pool before commencing their multi-day trek up Mount Toubkal.

After our swim, we visited the traditional Hammam on the grounds of the Kasbah. Wooden doors enclose a room full of hot steam heated by wood fire. We covered ourselves with black soap and an exfoliating glove softened our skin. We felt even more alive after the cold plunge in the marbled mosaic tile bath under the high arches and windows to the sky.

Connection to the local community

A core principle of the Kasbah is to ensure that it operates in harmony with and of benefit to the surrounding communities recognizing that it is itself a guest of the local Berbers and seeking to learn. A 5% levy is charged on the Kasbah’s services which is then directed to the Imlil Village Association to fund community projects including: building the first community hammam (bath house), creating a garbage disposal system, initiating the first two ambulances to serve the area, improving water safety in surrounding villages, and the creation of the organization Education For All to promote access to secondary education for girls from the High Atlas mountains including the building of a home for girls to board while attending school away from their families.

The founders’ longstanding commitment to education emanated from when they began leading educational tours in Morocco for school and college students long before the Kasbah was built.

Sustainability

The Kasbah was created in accordance with the principles of responsible tourism and sustainability. Highly conscious of the risk of greenwashing, the founders have intentionally sought to ensure the Kasbah benefits the community and also protects cultural traditions. Built before there was electricity in the region, workers from the surrounding villages used traditional building techniques (without electrical tools) and local materials, carried in by hand or with the assistance of mules. The fresh spring water is safe for drinking, and the Kasbah encourages the use of re-usable water bottles rather than plastic ones. The fruits, vegetables and meat are all locally sourced.

Standing on the terrace staring out at the mesmerizing landscape as the sun set behind High Atlas mountains, I reflect upon the passage of time in our parenting journey. Words cannot capture the mystery of the Kasbah du Toubkal – the magic of which must be experienced.

Walking well-trodden mountain pathways, eating fresh local food, and learning about the transformative work embedded in the Kasbah’s approach to tourism has now been imparted to our children. We hope, in turn, these experiences will serve to inform their contributions in the world as they continue to grow. Don’t wait, Morocco is on everyone’s bucket list. Growth and change are inevitable.

::Kasbah du Toubkal website

Karen Spector lives in Toronto with her husband, three kids, and three cats. She loves to engage in slow travel with her family, explore nature, and learn about local crafting and colourful textiles.

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Previous research that evaluated the effect of the hallucinogenic molecules of cannabis (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol THC) the main psychoactive compound in cannabis on motor vehicle crashes concluded that there is no increase of crash risk because of detectable THC. The molecule may linger days after use and is not a reliable indicator that a driver is impaired, report scientists in a new study.

Despite evidence showing no correlation between the detection of THC in the blood and driving impairment, 6 American states in the United States have per se laws using 2 or 5 ng/mL of THC as the cut-off point for driving under the influence of cannabis, while 12 have a zero-tolerance law.

These cut-off points are considered face value evidence of driving impairment, which means that even if it has been several days since an individual’s last use of the drug and they show no behavioral impairment, they may still face legal risks, up to and including felony charges. In Dubai you can go to jail for having cannabis in your blood, even if the cannabis was consumed in London, Tel Aviv or Toronto.

To address this issue, a team of researchers led by Dr. Thomas D. Marcotte, professor of psychiatry at the University of California, San Diego, and codirector of the Center for Medicinal Cannabis Research, set out to investigate the blood concentrations of THC in regular cannabis users, as well as the simulated driving performance for participants who exceeded per se cut-off points compared with those who were below these values. The researchers measured baseline concentrations of THC in 190 regular cannabis users after instructing participants to abstain from cannabis for at least 48 hours. Following abstention, the researchers also evaluated driving performance in this group using a driving simulator.

From this, the team found that many regular users of cannabis exceed zero tolerance and per se THC cut-off point concentrations days after their last use. Specifically, 43% of participants exceeded zero-tolerance statutes at baseline, while 24% had baseline blood THC concentrations that were greater than or equal to the per se cut-off of 2 ng/mL, and 5.3% had blood concentrations greater than or equal to 5 ng/mL.

Based on the results from the driving simulation, participants with elevated baseline concentrations of THC did no worse on a driving simulator compared with participants who were below per se cut-off points. Altogether, the results add to a growing body of evidence showing that current per se THC blood limit laws lack scientific credibility as face-value evidence of impairment.

“More work needs to be done to address how to best identify drivers who are under the influence of cannabis and are unsafe to drive,” the study authors wrote. “At present, the best protocol is a combination of observations in the field and toxicology testing.” They also added that “an essential component of improving highway safety is collaborations between law enforcement and the scientific community to develop standards that are unbiased and potentially lifesaving.”

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When you think of Japan, you probably picture cherry blossoms or neon-lit sushi bars. But in winter the country reveals a different kind of magic: snow-covered mountains, steaming outdoor onsen baths that are piped in from natural hotsprings, and one of the most unique ski cultures on Earth. From Hokkaido’s deep powder to Nagano’s Olympic valleys, Japan offers a winter experience that blends sustainability, tradition, and breathtaking natural beauty.

Start in Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island and snow capital. The Niseko region is internationally famous for its reliable powder and long winter season. The combination of cold Siberian winds and Japan’s maritime climate creates light, dry snow that falls almost daily between December and March.

The four main resorts—Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village, and Annupuri—are connected by lifts and shared passes, making it easy to explore all the mountain areas without a car. The nearest airport is New Chitose near Sapporo, and the journey from Tokyo by train and regional rail takes about five hours. In recent years Niseko has also begun introducing renewable-powered facilities and electric buses to reduce carbon emissions. We like that!

For travelers arriving from Tokyo, Nagano Prefecture on Honshu island is the most convenient option. The Hakuba Valley, which hosted events during the 1998 Winter Olympics, includes ten interconnected resorts that receive generous snowfall from mid-December to March.

Hakuba Happo-One and neighboring Iwatake are especially popular for their mix of wide beginner runs and challenging alpine terrain. The Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train connects Tokyo to Nagano in under two hours, followed by an hour’s scenic bus ride to Hakuba. Several hotels and lodges here now run on renewable electricity and promote zero-waste practices in partnership with the village’s sustainability initiative.

Nearby, Nozawa Onsen is perhaps Japan’s most atmospheric ski destination. The mountain offers more than thirty-six runs, and the village itself—famous for its natural hot springs—has been welcoming skiers for decades. Thirteen public baths bubble with geothermal water, free for anyone to use. Streets are narrow and walkable, and the entire community is heated partly by geothermal systems that prevent snow from icing the roads. The easiest route from Tokyo is by Shinkansen to Iiyama, followed by a short local bus ride.

Farther north in Niigata Prefecture, Myoko Kogen offers a quieter, more traditional atmosphere. The area includes several classic resorts such as Akakura Onsen, Ikenotaira, and Suginohara, known for tree skiing and soft snow that lingers into spring. Myoko’s municipal tourism office has committed to the national “Zero Carbon Tourism” framework, encouraging resorts and lodges to convert to renewable power and hybrid transport.

When to ski in Japan?

Japan’s ski season typically runs from mid-December to late March, although Hokkaido’s colder climate often allows skiing into April. The best conditions tend to occur in February, when snow depth peaks and crowds thin after the holidays. Climate data from Japan’s Meteorological Agency show that average winter temperatures have risen by about 1.5 degrees Celsius since the 1970s, shortening the season at lower-altitude resorts. In response, several ski areas are investing in energy-efficient snowmaking systems powered by renewable energy and reforesting slopes to stabilize the snowpack.

What sets Japan apart from other ski destinations is how seamlessly nature and culture intertwine. After a day on the mountain, most visitors trade ski boots for slippers and head to an onsen—an outdoor hot spring surrounded by snow and cedar trees. In Hakuba, bathhouses draw water from volcanic sources deep beneath the Alps. In Hokkaido, ryokans such as those near Niseko or Jozankei combine minimalist architecture with local cuisine and geothermal heating. Soaking in mineral water after skiing under falling snow is not just a ritual of comfort; it’s an immersion in the country’s centuries-old respect for natural energy.

Related: Skiing in Lebanon, where, when, how

Traveling sustainably in Japan is straightforward. The Shinkansen network, powered mainly by electricity from renewable and low-carbon sources, connects all major ski areas. Rail passes like the JR East or JR Hokkaido Pass make it affordable to combine multiple resorts in one trip without relying on rental cars or domestic flights.

Local bus systems in Hakuba, Myoko, and Niseko are expanding electric and hybrid fleets. Choosing rail over air travel can reduce your carbon footprint by as much as 80 percent for domestic journeys. We’ve rented cars in Japan and while it was find for a couple of days, most of the highways are boring, expensive and give little extra value along the way. The cars are small so you won’t be able to fit much if any gear, and you need to navigate driving on the wrong side of the road if you are from the United States.

Bringing gear or renting it?

Ski and snowboard rental shops in major resorts like Niseko, Hakuba, Furano, and Nozawa Onsen are exceptionally well equipped. Many rent out high-end gear from brands like Rossignol, Atomic, Burton, and Salomon — often less than two seasons old. Shops like Rhythm Japan (Niseko, Hakuba) or Spicy Rentals (Nozawa, Myoko) offer performance packages that rival what you’d find in the Alps or Rockies. The gear is also calibrated to the snow and getting around on public transport in Japan will be cumbersome with gear brought from home.

Skiing in Japan isn’t just about chasing powder and getting around fast —it’s about slowing down and seeing how a country deeply attuned to the seasons adapts to a warming world. From the geothermal heat that warms its baths to the electric trains that glide through frozen valleys, Japan shows how winter tourism can evolve without losing its soul. The snow still falls, the onsen still steam, and in every village the quiet rhythm of winter endures. And maybe you’ll get to see a snow monkey along the way.

Forget the cherry blossoms in Japan. Take the train north, breathe in the cold air, and ski your troubles away. A little saki can warm you up at the end of the day.

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Planning your winter holidays and want something a little more exotic for the family? Lebanon offers a rare alpine escape in the Middle East—high-altitude slopes within close reach of the coast, cedar forests and mountain villages. You can ski by day and swim by night. Resorts such as Mzaar Ski Resort Faraya, Cedars (Bsharri) Ski Resort, Zaarour Club, Laqlouq, Faqra and the nearby Cedars of God (Bsharri) forest region deliver a mix of skiing and nature. But the future of winter tourism here is being challenged by changing seasons and climate change.

Where to Ski in Lebanon:

Mzaar Ski Resort Faraya: Located in the Keserwan-Jbeil mountains and just over an hour from Beirut, Mzaar is Lebanon’s largest ski resort and a go-to for all ski levels. It offers dramatic views across the Bekaa Valley. For travelers, this is the most accessible destination and contains a wide range of slopes, accommodations and après-ski options.

Cedars (Bsharri) Ski Resort: In the Bsharri region, the Cedars resort lies near the famed “Cedars of God” grove and operates at higher altitude than many Lebanese resorts. Because of the elevation, it tends to offer better snow cover and is a strong choice for those seeking reliability and dramatic alpine scenery.

Zaarour Club: Zaarour is situated on Mount Sannine in the Matn district, about 35 km from Beirut. With north-facing slopes, activities beyond skiing, and a quiet setting, it’s ideal for families or visitors who want a gentler ski trip within close reach of the city.

Laqlouq lies at a lower base altitude (around 1,650-1,800 m) and while it offers charm and authenticity, its lower elevation means more sensitivity to warm weather and shrinking snow cover. If you visit, plan for a flexible schedule and keep an eye on snow conditions.

Faqra combines winter sports with historic Roman ruins and natural beauty. Though not always as large as Mzaar or the Cedars, it offers a distinctive ski-holiday option in Lebanon’s mountain belt.

Cedars of God (Bsharri) Region: While not strictly a ski resort itself, the Cedars of God forest near Bsharri forms a spectacular backdrop to the ski resort experience. The high-altitude forest of Lebanese cedar trees is emblematic of Lebanon’s mountain ecosystem. It adds ecological and cultural value to a ski visit in the region.

Why the Ski Seasons Are A-Changin’

Lebanon’s ski industry is under pressure from climate change. According to Reuters, snow cover is expected to shrink by up to 40 percent by 2040. A recent review notes that ski resorts in Lebanon face the challenge of insufficient snow, increasingly shorter seasons and rising expenses. For example, at Mzaar only about 70 percent of slopes were able to open in one season due to insufficient snowfall. Lower snowfall, delayed season openings, and rising temperatures all contribute to uncertainty for visitors and operators alike.

What this means for you as a skier: choose resorts with higher elevation (like the Cedars), monitor local snow and weather reports ahead of your trip, and set realistic expectations—the skiing season may begin later, end sooner, and conditions may not be the same every year.

Lebanese resorts and communities have begun to adapt. And despite the country lacking basic resources such as continuous power or a safe water supply, some of the measures include upgrading snow-making infrastructure, improving the efficiency of ski lifts, and diversifying into four-season mountain tourism.

Ski resorts in Lebanon are coping by turning the region into a full-season tourist destination, like Blue Mountain in Barrie, Ontario, Canada, which turns its ski lifts into bike lifts for downhill bike riding on extreme trails. The Canadian ski town also offers forest treks and climbing sports, along with man-made pools and family packages for the resorts that normally don’t generate income in the summer.

So if the snow is melted for your ski holiday in Lebanon, this is what you can do: enjoy hiking, mountain biking, wellness retreats—to compensate for shorter ski seasons. Participate in forest conservation and the protection of mountain ecosystems (such as the Cedars of God) to maintain snow-catch and water-storage functions.

Planning Your Ski Trip to Lebanon

Here are some tips to maximize your ski holiday in Lebanon:
• Go early or late in the season: mid-January to early March tends to offer the best conditions, though keep an eye on real-time snowfall. Book a flexible ticket for flights and hotel rooms if possible.
• Choose high-altitude resorts: resorts like the Cedars have more reliable snow because of elevation.
• Flexibility helps: check snow reports, know that slope availability may vary, and look for resorts that offer other activities if snow is thin.
• Book accommodations near the slopes: resorts like Mzaar and Zaarour are close to the coast and Beirut, making logistics easier.
• Respect the environment: Lebanon’s mountains are ecologically fragile—choose resorts and services that demonstrate sustainable practices.

If you’re looking for a ski escape that blends altitude, Mediterranean views and unique mountain culture, Lebanon is still an exciting choice and one you can talk about when you return home. Resorts like Mzaar Ski Resort Faraya, Cedars (Bsharri) Ski Resort, Zaarour Club, Laqlouq and Faqra offer a range of experiences from lively slopes to tranquil escapes. However, the window for consistent snow is narrowing, and the effects of climate change are real. Planning ahead, choosing your resort wisely and embracing the full mountain experience (not just snow) will give you your best chance of a memorable trip. Lebanon’s mountains aren’t just skiing locations—they’re landscapes in transition, and your visit can both enjoy and support their evolving future.

According to Planet Ski, “There are currently 68 countries in the world that offer equipped outdoor ski areas covered with snow. Even if snowfields are much more numerous there are about 2,000 ski resorts worldwide. Besides the major ski destinations in terms of skier visits, there are a number of other, smaller destinations, where skiing has been an industry for a long time, or is currently developing.”

The most obvious emerging destinations are Eastern Europe and China, according to the expert ski site. There are a number of other small players spread out across the globe and they are in: Cyprus, Greece, India, Iran, Israel, Lebanon, Lesotho, Morocco, New Zealand, Pakistan, South Africa, Turkey and several more. Have a ski experience to share in a less-travelled area? Send us a report ski@greenprophet.com.

For more background on Lebanon’s ski industry and climate change, read
Put Away Your Snowboard: Lebanon’s Slopes Are Melting, which looks at how higher temperatures have already cut the skiing season in half.

If you’re comparing Lebanon with other regional options, see 5 Top Ski Holidays in the Middle East,
which includes Mzaar in Lebanon alongside other regional ski spots.

For a broader look at eco-conscious winter travel and skiiing, link to our past coverage on Where to go for a sustainable ski holiday?, which weighs up greener ski choices and resort practices.

The post Lebanon ski resorts and when to escape climate change appeared first on Green Prophet.

Saudi Arabia, a nation better known for its oil wealth, is rapidly reinventing itself as a marine sustainability player. Positioned between the ecologically sensitive Red Sea and the economically strategic Arabian Gulf, the Kingdom now has its sights set on becoming a global hub for blue economy innovation.

As part of this shift, Jeddah will host the Ocean Action Forum on October 27–28, 2025, at the Jeddah Hilton, gathering policymakers, scientists, investors, infrastructure developers, marine engineers, and climate strategists. The event promises not just high-level discussion but a new governance model for ocean-positive development in the Gulf.

According to the official agenda, the forum is designed to “shed light on key industry trends and issues, foster strategic partnerships, and explore cutting-edge solutions to safeguard marine ecosystems.”

Under Vision 2030, Saudi Arabia has made an unusual promise for a hydrocarbon nation: to restore coastal ecosystems, expand marine protected areas, scale mangrove forests, and build new “nature-compatible” infrastructure across its rapidly developing coastal cities.

In early 2025, the Kingdom took a symbolic global step by assuming the Secretariat of the International Coral Reef Initiative (ICRI), giving it a front-row seat in shaping global coral protection policy. This forum is the first major marine policy gathering since that appointment, making it a signal moment in the Kingdom’s environmental diplomacy.

Related: We’ve reach coral reef tipping point

A Closer Look at Day One

The event opens with remarks by Dr. Vienna Eleuteri of the Saudi Red Sea Authority, who will set the tone with a call for “long-term marine stewardship backed by measurable outcomes and inclusive governance.”

From there, discussions quickly move from policy to hard innovation:

• Marine Spatial Planning as Climate Defense
  How do you balance tourism, fishing, shipping lanes, and offshore development without collapsing delicate marine ecosystems? Experts from KAUST, Fujairah Research Centre, and Buro Happold will debate new zoning and monitoring tools.

• Turning Ports into Reefs
  In one of the most anticipated talks, Ocean Ecostructures CEO Ignasi Ferrer will present how AI, robotics, and bio-designed structures can convert concrete seawalls and breakwaters into living habitats, transforming industrial coastlines into biodiversity zones.

• Aquaculture Reimagined
  With global pressure on wild fisheries, KAUST’s Aquaculture Development Program will outline how precision aquaculture and filtration technologies could make farmed fish part of a regenerative, not extractive, ocean economy.

Mangroves, Microplastics and Machine Learning

Late-afternoon sessions focus on restoration at scale, including Saudi-led platforms like Netzero’s Mangrove Action initiative, which uses satellite monitoring and digital tracking tools to verify coastal restoration outcomes—a shift toward data accountability for nature projects.

There will also be a tech spotlight on microplastic-free aquaculture, with filtration innovators from TraCon GmbH showcasing Aqua BIO Kat, a new German-engineered system designed to reduce contamination and protect human health through clean water cycles.

From Coastal Luxury to Coastal Responsibility

Saudi Arabia’s massive Red Sea tourism projects—including NEOM, the Red Sea Global regenerative tourism initiative, and luxury island developments—have drawn both investment interest and ecological scrutiny. The Ocean Action Forum appears to be the Kingdom’s answer: framing development and marine restoration not as opposing forces, but as parts of a “regenerative coastal economy.”

The success of the event will depend on what happens after the panel lights turn off—whether restoration targets, monitoring systems, and local community roles become embedded in policy, not just PowerPoint slides.

But one thing is clear: Saudi Arabia is no longer observing the marine sustainability movement from the sidelines. It is positioning itself to lead it. The Ocean Action Forum 2025 at the Jeddah Hilton may well be the moment the region begins to define its own blueprint for marine resilience—not borrowed from Europe or island nations, but rooted in the realities of the Red Sea and Arabian Gulf.

The post Ocean Action Forum 2025: Can Saudi Arabia Redefine the Future of Marine Stewardship? appeared first on Green Prophet.

Berlin still feels like the last cool city humans can be human before everything moves into the cloud. We took a five-day family trip with a Green Prophet mindset — low-impact, curious, no interest in polished tourist loops.

Generator Hostel is often recommended as a budget option for families in Mitte. We considered it but felt that Mitte is too far from it all, and instead contacted eco-leaning hotels to see who had space. Circus was full. Orania was almost full and offered a family room for 750 Euros, still well beyond budget. Michelberger, noted for its regenerative farm on the outskirts of Berlin, had two loft rooms available for a family of four, 300 Euro, — booked immediately. The location was excellent, the brunch breakfast was an added 24 Euro each (you can choose each day), and if you have time to linger, this farm-to-table option is worth it.

A cafe on the other side of the hotel offers a great place to have a cappuccino and a buttery croissant. Artists, designers and fashion types also pop in off the streets by day, and to hear DJs (and sometimes) live music by night. At Michelberger you are in the center of it all without leaving the hotel. I’ve never felt that way before, except once at a $10 a night hostel in San Jose, Costa Rica. I am too old for bedbugs and 7 people to a cramped dorm room.

Every other night a bean bag room on the 5th floor turns into a movie house called the Forest Theater, upgrading your trip to the feeling of a global nomad without having to travel to Chiang Mai. We peeked in on a film at 8pm and it was packed.

The loft bed setup in Michelberger made the room feel like a treehouse. We took 2 rooms for a family of 4, but 3 could fit comfortably if you are planning on being out of the room by day. Climbing up into the king bed every night felt like a repeat moment of “okay, I can live like this.” Beds and pillows were excellent.

Note on scent: the hotel uses aromatherapy-type smells in the rooms, lobby and common areas. They’re from natural oils and noticeable. If you’re scent-sensitive, just be aware — it’s part of the Michelberger identity.

Breakfast at Michelberger is a meal you actually remember. Sourdough bread, jams, vegetables, cheese, the best apple I ate in my life,  — a lot of it coming from the hotel’s own farm. It reminded us of farm stays in Sweden like Stedsans: real food, not hotel buffet food. Designers we know travel to Berlin and mark this place as THE place to brunch and we get why.

The Michelberger building used to be an East German factory. Now it’s full of laptops, fashion people, and families like us who are tired of standard hotels. You hear multiple languages at every table. The shared spaces are active but not chaotic. It’s rare to walk into a hotel and feel like you are part of something bigger.

Simple but good touches: Dr. Bronner’s soap in the rooms, mesh shelves, big desks, nothing overly designed but everything considered. My husband says that’s the German way.

The location is ideal — right next to Warschauer Straße S-Bahn and U-Bahn. From there you can get anywhere in Berlin or to the airport without thinking. Michelberger is in the quirky Friedrichshain district and it’s a walk or a two-stop tram ride to the Kreuzberg district.

Berlin from Michelberger — Walkable, Raw, and Full of Side Missions

RAW-Gelände is minutes away — graffiti walls, skate ramps, concerts, bars operating out of shipping containers, and informal market days where Berliners unload boots full of old Doc Martens and Adidas. Bargain and bring a hood or umbrella because Berlin weather shifts every hour.

Once a 19th-century train repair yard (the Reichsbahn-Ausbesserungs-Werk), this abandoned industrial strip is now one of the last true subcultural zones left in central Berlin. Since being taken over by artists and outsiders in the late ’90s, it’s evolved into a graffiti-covered hub packed with clubs, bars, an indoor skate park, a climbing gym, and a Sunday flea market. It feels less like a tourist site and more like Berlin holding onto its rough edges on purpose.

Skatehalle inside RAW is a full skatepark indoors with sessions for different skill levels and even wheelchair sessions. Teens will not be bored.

Dog Shit Park nearby (nickname earned) is where you meet people actually living in Berlin, not touring it. We met Collin there — former snowboard film guy — who said, “You look like you want to skate and spray paint. Why did you come here? Too bad not earlier, I could have shown you the alternative Berlin” in a way only Berlin locals can.

Boxhagener Platz (Boxi) is a short walk — calm park on weekdays, full flea market on Saturdays. RAW on Sunday felt more alive and less curated than the Boxhagener Platz, with stuff that can be bought on a Chinese website and sold as trinkets.

We ate mostly vegan and Berlin makes it easy. 1990 Vegan Living — Vietnamese-style vegan bowls, tofu panko sticks — easy crowd-pleaser. About 100 Euros for a family of 4 including alcohol. You can’t make reservations and if you have a chance, choose a table on the right side if you like action and people watching.

Iro Izakaya (vegan tapas and sake) was my husband’s top meal of the entire trip. It’s supposed to be Japanese but tasted like an Asian fusion restaurant. Also about 100 Euros for a family of 4 dinner. The kids still like ramen, so noodles and Asian food was an easy way for us to please all. A ramen bowl was about 15 Euros. I didn’t love the broth and had much better vegan ramen in Japan. You can’t please everyone all of the time.

Museums weren’t a focus, but the Vintage Computer Museum was a hit (Computerspiele Museum) — kids can actually play old Sega and arcade games without time limits. DDR Museum gave the kids a practical picture of East German life — like a kibbutz apartment but with more 70s wallpaper. It was my way to warn them about Communism.

Useful Stops for Teens and People Who Like Real Shops

• Green Fuzz – non-vintage alt clothing store, actually interesting.

• Wollparadies Fadeninsel – right next door, full of hand-dyed wool, very Waldorf-friendly.

• Voo  – scent and ceramic heaven, items look like they were pulled from a flea market but priced like art objects (just look, don’t commit).

• Search and Destroy Skateshop – for kids who actually skate, not just wear skate brands.

• There are vintage shops everywhere but they feel overpriced for someone who shops vintage in small charity shops in Canada. Even Humana, with its outlets around Berlin are very overpriced. Pop in though if you need a sexy dirndl costume for Octoberfest or a pair of Lederhosen.

Train rides in Berlin double as people-watching. Watch out for BVG tourist passes bought through an app. We made an expensive mistake, spending $250 for a 3-day local tram pass for our family. We mistakenly bought the pass that included museums free of charge, and one of the days all the museums were closed. We hadn’t intended on going to any of the museums that were free with that pass. I reached out to customer service and they said the passes are, sadly non-refundable. Try and research the passes and what you need online before your trip, and I suggest buying single ride tickets the first day you are there, to see if it’s worth for you to buy any passes. In some instances taking an Uber on short trips made it more worth our while.

Beyond that unpleasantness, the trains are great and easy to navigate. A little less easy for me than Japan.

Multicultural, relaxed, with vegan döner and kepap stands at almost everywhere outside of them. We tried Indian food one night at in Oranienstraße at Amrit (not far from the station) and it was forgettable, but a Pakistani taxi driver later told us where the “real” places were— filed for next time.

If You’ve Got a Few Days and Don’t Want the Usual

• Use Michelberger as a base and explore everything within a 20-minute walk before you even consider museums. We heard that the Natural History Museum is great for kids –– the aquarium too. But our kids have travelled to so many large cities from Toronto to Bangkok, where these kinds of copy-paste museums seem to be a carbon copy of each other and a place to go when you need to kill time and not get the true vibe of the place.

• Sit at RAW for an hour or a few and just watch. Get to Holstmarket 25. We didn’t make it, but it’s earmarked for our next stay.

• Let teens spend a session or two at Skatehalle while you explore Boxi or grab coffee. Book in advance so you aren’t disappointed. Skatehalle offers a beginner’s session for kids for 20 Euros on Sunday mornings from 9 to 11. My son loved it. They have a number of drop in times throughout the week.

• Mauerpark on Sunday for markets and karaoke

• Look up what’s on at SO36 or About Blank instead of Googling “best nightlife.” We caught a show with the teens at Prachtwerk. Berlin works better without lists.

• We didn’t get to the Liquidrom or Vabali spas this trip. The kids needed our full attention. Next time we will look for events at the Tempelhofer Feld, an old airstrip turned into a giant public park, and maybe a hike to Teufelsberg in Berlin, a man-made hill in the Grunewald Forest that is home to an abandoned Cold War listening station used by the US and its allies.

• Rent a bike and drive around without a plan.

Michelberger, designed by re-use architects: Jonathan Tuckey Design in 2018, is the best home base if you can stretch to it. From there, Berlin unfolds itself without needing much planning. Don’t sweat it by booking trips.

::Michelberger

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